While spending three weeks in October of 2024 roadtripping through the northern half of Japan, visiting camping locations along the way, I made it a point to actually camp at as many as I could. Many campgrounds in the country are remote and with little online presence - another way to say that is unless you know what you're looking for they can be tough to find. Snow Peak's Campfield at Shirakawa Kogen is the opposite, almost more theme park or facsimile of a ski resort than campground. So obviously we had to go.
- What is Shirakawa Kogen
- Getting There
- Check-In & Finding Camp
- Dog City
- Other ways to stay at Shirakawa Kogen
- Activities and occupying time
- Final Thoughts
What is the Shirakwa Kogen Campfield?
I first asked this question of myself as I was attempting to punch in the address to my 2016 Toyota Paso rental car's on-board GPS. While the voice telling me when and were to turn was always endearing, the search was not, only revealing Angel Forest as a destination. It would take a few minutes of the car idling outside a 7-11 for me to compare the maps and determine that I was indeed headed to the right spot.
It wasn't until a few hours later, as I arrived, that I realized where the confusion came from: Snow Peak's Shirakawa Kogen Campfield is only one of many camping and accommodation options within a massive outdoor and sporting complex. Which is a way of saying, it's almost like heading to the mall. You can shop at any number of stores, but they're really all in the same spot.
Angel Forest is a massive complex of paster yurts, traditional cabins, multiple camping options, a hotel, a lake with boating and fishing facilities, stores, onsens, and a few different restaurants depending on how you're feeling. In that way, it borders on outdoor theme park more than the traditional campground of Japan.
Snow Peak's website describes the facility as being,
Located in the forest at the northern foot of the Nasu Five Peaks, Angel Forest Shirakawa Kogen is a resort complex boasting an area of over 2 million square meters. Located on a plateau at an altitude of about 700 meters, the resort is filled with fresh breezes in early summer when the greenery is vibrant, and in winter, the entire area is covered in silvery white. You can experience the dynamic changes of the seasons throughout the year.
Angel Forest Shirakawa Kogen is popular with many dog lovers and offers a wide range of facilities and services, including an indoor and outdoor dog run. You can enjoy camping with your dog to the fullest. It also has one of the largest managed fishing areas in Japan, and proposes a new outdoor style called "CAMP FISHING" where you can enjoy fishing while camping. In addition to equipment rental, we also hold seminars and experience events.
Getting To Snow Peak Shirakawa Kogen Campfield
Of all the Campfields we have traveled to, Shirakawa Kogen is the most remote. From Tokyo it is a 3 and a half hour drive - for us, coming from Snow Peak's HQ1 in Niigata Japan by way of Aizu Wakamatsu, it was about a 4 hour drive. And had we not been driving, this stop likely wouldn't have happened at all. Because Shirakawa Kogen is unfortunately sandwiched between two quite far train lines. To the Northwest is the Aizu Railway along route 121, and to the Southeast is the Akita Shinkansen line. However, as these lines run parallel to one another, it takes a 35 minute taxi ride up into the mountains if you are without a car.
Compared to so many other Campfields within the country, this makes it a tough sell for a casual tourist stop, especially as its biggest selling point is not something an international tourist would even be able to take advantage of - bringing your furry friends.
Check-In and Finding Camp
Pulling in to the large complex felt a little intimidating - a feeling that caught me off guard. At this point I had been driving around the country camping for nearly two weeks. I had a feel for it. I was making a complete stop at all railroad crossings, I would hit my hazard lights and let them flash twice as a thank you to drivers who would make space for me to merge, I backed in to spots while parking, and I had unknowingly stumbled into a snack bar and come out having enjoyed the experience.
But here was a big parking lot with signage that I did not have time to translate from the drivers seat. So, seeing the large Snow Peak & Foxfire sign on the bright white building, I took a stab and parked as close as I could - walking the rest of the way over.
The store is laid out like many Snow Peak stores. Event boards for the coming week showcase what you can join in on during your stay, and large tent and camp displays occupy the interior of the building. Unlike most Snow Peak stores though, this location is shared with Fox Fire - an outdoor clothing line from Tiemco.
At the front desk, I was greeted with the familiarity of them knowing who I was. Not because of international fame, but as someone with a Western name coming to a Japanese campsite with a reservation. This was an experience I had a number of times on this trip.
Check-in was easy, with the standard welcome folio that is given at each location. But when it came time to actually get to the campsite, it was a bit more of a challenge. Because of the size and scale of Angel Forest and Shirakawa Kogen, a staff member had me follow him in our cars down the road to the Snow Peak Campfield portion. As I had opted for a Free Site (equivalent to a First-Come-First-Serve site in America), I asked what he thought was the best location. He quickly pointed me down a small hill, past the shower facilities, to a lake front spot nestled in the trees.
While still a pain-free experience, it was certainly the longest Check-In I experienced and would experience (with the exception of Snow Peak Way Kanuma) on this trip. But even so, I had plenty of time to get camp set up before the sun started to dip below the mountain peaks behind me.
Dog City
Part of the Angel Forest and Shirakawa Kogen appeal is that it's a large complex specifically catered to dog-owners and the dogs themselves. This can be seen and felt immediately after entering the gate, as countless dogs walk around on leashes or are pushed in strollers. And while there are multiple leash-free areas for dogs to play in, the main selling point is how the companions are treated at camp itself.
As anyone who has camped with a dog can attest, camping at a campground and ensuring they're not constantly getting a lead tangled up in trees, tent guy lines, tarp poles, and your own feet can be a chore. It also requires a bit of a side eye on them at all times, which takes away from staring longingly into the dancing flames of your Takibi.
Shirakawa Kogen's Campfield takes a different approach, with their Dog Run Campsites. These spacious campsites fit your car, a tent or shelter, a tarp, with room for a kitchen and more. But what makes it unique is that it is fully enclosed with a large fence. Allowing your dog to run free without you needing to worry about it running off or watching it on a leash.
While not every site is like this, there are plenty of dog sites to reserve. And while those of us tourists who likely won't need to use it, I really appreciated seeing a different approach to camp site design and accommodations.
Other ways to stay at Shirakawa Kogen
As a large complex, the variety of ways to stay seems to be unending. As I checked in later at night, and didn't have much time to walk around or really see what was around me - my morning walk was filled with astonishment at the size and breadth of the area.
This first came to light as I crawled from my tent. While there's always a bit of morning grog from camping (for me, it comes from having a tendency of waking up just a little bit too early), I was quickly snapped out of it as I stared across the lake at a plethora of what I can only describe as mountain chalet's staring back at me.
Each with their own fence and yard area, they ranged in size but had all were two stories and big enough for the whole family to stay in. In the yard, space was available to set up extra tarps or shelters and enjoy a fire at night looking across the lake at the forested area I was set up in.
As I started a morning walk waiting for the cafe to open and to take part in my included breakfast, I found even more surprise accommodations.
The simplest was an on-site hotel. This was connected to its own onsen and spa which any visitor to the grounds was able to take part in for around $8. But walking around the corner revealed what can only be described as a suburb of clay domed houses. Painted in various earthy tones, the grounds would have been right at home as an interplanetary neighborhood in a low-budget SciFi movie. While I was unable to see inside myself, Angel Forest provided a few looks.
And if it didn't end there, just beyond the yurt neighborhood I found myself on what felt eerily like a facsimile of home. Larger ranch style houses complete with car port, front yard, and back yard - nothing like any home in Japan I'd ever come across before. With the largest measuring over 2200sq ft, these would fit right in to many neighborhoods here in Portland.
Activities and occupying time
With so many different ways to stay, and able to support as many people as they do on site at any given time, there's a robust assortment of things to do to occupy your time. And while many people would choose to take their dogs for a stroll or play with them in an off-leash area, for us bi-pedal beings traveling solo we'll want to find a few other ways to stay entertained.
Luckily, it's quite easy to find something to do. The lake offers designated fishing areas for both fly or bait and tackle fishing. If you didn't bring your fishing gear (like me as a traveler), rentals are available inside the Snow Peak and FoxFire gear store. Similarly, if you're looking to take a cruise around the lake you can rent a boat or canoe and spend some time floating in the water.
Outside of the more natural activities, there are also some comforts a little closer to home. A full spa and onsen is available for any visitor, and there are 3 restaurant options (including a Snow Peak Cafe) plus a small convenience store for any last minute needs. The restaurant hours are limited, and from the line I saw outside as I was entering the camp ground may have a bit of a wait to them as well. The only meal I ate out while visiting was the breakfast offered by the Snow Peak Cafe.
A nominal add on to my site rental, it was a modern fusion of a few different breakfast cuisine options, but rooted in a traditional Japanese breakfast style. In addition to the more robust meal options, they also had the full line of Snow Peak Eat frozen and pre-packaged meals, as well as fresh pastries and coffee available.
Final Thoughts
Snow Peak's Campfield at Shirakawa Kogen is one of the more remote options - with no easy train ride taking you to the front door. And with such a focus on furry companions making the trip with you, it's likely not an ideal stop if you're just visiting the country for a limited time. However, that does mean if you do choose to attend, you will likely be one of the few foreign tourists on the grounds at any given time.
All that aside, it remains very much Snow Peak in atmosphere, with sites that are more secluded than any other I enjoyed during this travel period in Japan. If you're looking to get away from your get away, have a car available at your disposal, and feel like making the trek, you're unlikely to be disappointed.
